Anacortes Siding Decking on March Point Has to Answer to the Water
March Point sits out on the water, surrounded by Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay, which means every deck built here is fighting a different battle than a deck built inland in Skagit County. Salt-laden air moves through constantly, driving rain comes in sideways off the water for months at a time, and the shaded, damp stretches of the year grow moss and algae on almost any horizontal surface that isn't built to shed water fast. A deck that would hold up fine in a dry inland yard can start showing problems within a couple of seasons out here if it wasn't built with this specific environment in mind.
Composite decking is a good match for March Point when it's specified and installed correctly, because the board material itself resists rot, doesn't need annual staining, and won't splinter or cup the way wood does after repeated wet-dry cycles. But the board is only part of the job. The substructure underneath it, the fasteners holding it together, and the way water is directed off and away from the house are what actually determine whether the deck is still solid and good-looking in ten or fifteen years.
What the Local Climate Actually Does to a Deck
Salt Air
Airborne salt from the bay settles on every exposed surface, including metal hardware, fastener heads, and any exposed framing connectors. Over years, ordinary hardware corrodes, fasteners weaken, and rust streaks can bleed through onto lighter-colored composite boards. This is the single biggest reason we're picky about hardware selection on March Point jobs.
Driving Rain
Rain here often doesn't fall straight down — wind off the water pushes it sideways into ledger boards, house siding, and the gaps between decking and the home. If flashing and water diversion aren't done right at the point where the deck meets the house, water gets behind siding and into framing, and you won't see the damage until it's already spread.
Moss and Algae Season
Shaded, low-airflow decks in this part of Skagit County grow moss and green algae film for a good stretch of the year, especially on the north or water-facing side of a home. This isn't just cosmetic — a slick, moss-covered deck surface is a slip hazard, and moss that's allowed to sit traps moisture against the board surface longer than it should.
Choosing the Right Composite Board for This Environment
Not all composite decking is built the same, and the differences matter more here than in a dry climate. We generally steer March Point homeowners toward fully capped composite boards — meaning the wood-plastic core is wrapped on all sides with a protective polymer shell — rather than uncapped or cap-stock-only products.
- Fully capped composite: Resists moisture absorption at the core, which matters when the board is getting rained on sideways for days at a stretch. Easier to keep clean of moss film since the surface doesn't have exposed wood fiber to hold moisture.
- Uncapped or partially capped composite: Costs less up front, but exposed wood-fiber content at cut ends or on the board face can wick moisture, which shortens the board's practical life in a wet marine climate and gives algae something to grip.
- Color and finish: Lighter colors show salt residue and water spotting more readily; streaked or multi-tonal colors hide the mineral deposits and light debris that accumulate between cleanings.
We'll walk through board options with you at the estimate and explain the honest trade-offs — there's rarely a single "best" board, just the right fit for your budget, your deck's sun and shade exposure, and how much upkeep you want to do.
The Substructure Is Where Decks Actually Fail
Composite board manufacturers can only warranty the board — they can't fix a deck that's failing because of what's underneath it. On a March Point job, the framing and substructure decisions matter as much as the decking material itself.
Framing and Ledger Attachment
Where the deck ledger board bolts to the house is the single most important water-management point on the whole structure. We flash this connection properly, with the flashing lapped correctly under the house's weather-resistant barrier or siding rather than just caulked on top, so wind-driven rain can't track behind it and into the wall framing.
Joist Protection
Untreated or poorly sealed joists sitting under a composite deck in a wet climate can rot from below even while the composite boards on top look fine. We use joist tape or an equivalent sealed barrier on top of framing members to keep water from sitting in fastener holes and end grain.
Ventilation and Ground Clearance
Low, tight-to-the-ground decks trap damp air underneath, which feeds both wood rot in the framing and moss growth on the underside of boards. We maintain proper clearance and airflow paths under the deck wherever the design and grade allow it.
Fasteners and Hardware: Where Salt Air Does Its Damage
This is the detail that separates a deck that's still tight in fifteen years from one that starts rattling and staining in three. In a salt-air environment, we specify stainless steel or marine-grade coated fasteners and structural hardware rather than standard galvanized components, particularly for anything exposed or near the water side of the home. Hidden fastener clip systems, which are common with composite boards, also need to be rated for the corrosion exposure they'll actually see here — not just the manufacturer's baseline spec.
| Hardware Choice | Behavior in Marine Air | Where We Use It |
|---|---|---|
| Standard galvanized fasteners | Coating breaks down over time with salt exposure; rust can bleed onto light boards | Avoided on exposed or water-facing structures |
| Stainless steel fasteners | High corrosion resistance, holds up well long-term near the bay | Standard on March Point decking and ledger attachment |
| Marine-grade coated structural connectors | Rated for coastal exposure, resists corrosion at joist hangers and post bases | Framing connections, especially near grade |
| Composite hidden fastener clips | Performance varies by manufacturer rating | Matched to board brand and corrosion rating at install |
Our Process, Start to Finish
We keep the process straightforward and explain each step before we start, so there aren't surprises once the crew is on-site.
- On-site assessment: We look at sun/shade exposure, drainage patterns, proximity to the water side of your lot, existing structure condition, and any moss or moisture issues on your current deck or siding.
- Design and board selection: We walk through composite board options, colors, and railing choices suited to your home and budget, with the climate trade-offs explained plainly.
- Permitting: Deck work in unincorporated Skagit County or within Anacortes city limits typically requires a permit depending on size and height — we handle that paperwork so it's not on you.
- Demo and framing: Removal of the old structure if needed, followed by framing built to current code with corrosion-appropriate hardware and joist protection.
- Ledger flashing and waterproofing: Proper integration with your home's siding and weather barrier before a single deck board goes down.
- Decking and railing installation: Composite boards installed per manufacturer spacing and fastening specs, adjusted for our climate where experience tells us it matters.
- Final walkthrough: We go over basic care with you and point out anything worth watching in year one.
Living With a Composite Deck in a Wet, Salty Climate
Composite decking is lower-maintenance than wood, but "low-maintenance" doesn't mean "no maintenance" in this climate. A little seasonal attention keeps a composite deck performing the way it should for the full length of its service life.
- Rinse or sweep the deck surface periodically through the wet months to keep moss spores and organic debris from getting a foothold.
- Clean visible moss or algae with a soft brush and a cleaner rated for composite decking — avoid pressure washing at close range or high pressure, which can damage the cap layer.
- Keep gutters and downspouts near the deck clear so roof runoff isn't dumping extra water directly onto the deck surface or ledger connection.
- Trim back overhanging vegetation to improve airflow and sun exposure, both of which slow moss growth.
- Check railing posts and stair connections annually for movement, especially after a hard winter storm season.
- Watch for any staining at fastener heads or hardware, which can be an early sign a component needs replacing before it fails.
Why It Matters That We Already Work March Point
A contractor who mostly builds decks in drier parts of the state can still put together a deck that looks right on installation day. The difference shows up two or three winters later, when a ledger connection that wasn't flashed for wind-driven rain starts leaking, or standard hardware starts rusting because it wasn't rated for salt air. We build decks in this specific stretch of Skagit County regularly, so the flashing details, fastener specs, and framing protection we use aren't generic — they're calibrated to what actually happens to a deck sitting near Fidalgo Bay through a full Pacific Northwest wet season.
If you're planning a new deck or replacing one that's showing its age, we're happy to take a look and put together a straightforward, no-pressure estimate. Use the form below to get started, and we'll talk through what your home and site actually need.